August 17th - 20th
I have been waiting to share Thailand with Pearce for a long time; seven years to be exact. It would be difficult not to love this place as the land, people and food are all amazing. Like most travelers, Bangkok was our entry point into Thailand. Unlike most, instead of heading to backpacker’s “paradise” on Ko San road, we directed our driver to a house off of Suhkamvit Soi 101. We would be staying in a house in an outlying neighborhood with Lena, a friend of an old Peace Corps buddy of mine. With true Midwestern spirit she welcomed us like she had known us for years, allowing us to use her spare cell phone, making us an extra set of keys, and offering up anything she had in her house. Her home was like a welcome retreat away from the world of hostels where we could let down our guard and feel truly at home. Even better, her home is located in a Thai neighborhood just 20 minutes from the Sky Train, aka BTS.
Typically on our first night somewhere we take it kind of easy, but right before we arrived we learned our friends Gordon and Katelyn would be in Thailand for one night; their last in Asia before heading home. We couldn’t pass up a chance to hang with them again. The plan was to start the night at 7pm at Sky Bar, located in the “Dome” in downtown Bangkok to watch the sunset. The locale did present some challenges as it requires “appropriate attire”: women must not where flip-flops and men must have long sleeves and closed toed shoes. We on the other hand dressed in backpacker chic. Lena came to the rescue for me, letting me borrow a dress and heels; Pearce arranged to borrow an extra pair of Gordon’s “big” shoes who luckily had extras made in Hoi An. We had arranged for Pearce to wear his flip flops to the restaurant and then change there.
We finally reunited with Gordon and Katelyn at the Dome around 10pm, delayed due to the 
difficulty of getting around the city in the rain. After a quick costume change by Pearce, we tried to head to Sky Bar, but couldn’t as it was closed for a private party. Instead we were brought to another swanky bar on one of the top levels. Fortunately, the rain must have held up other partiers as well as we were led directly to a lounge area right next to a window with a great view of the city. Feeling like we were in our own screening of the Hangover 2, we enjoyed sipping on fancy cocktails and catching up on what each of us had been doing for the past few weeks.
difficulty of getting around the city in the rain. After a quick costume change by Pearce, we tried to head to Sky Bar, but couldn’t as it was closed for a private party. Instead we were brought to another swanky bar on one of the top levels. Fortunately, the rain must have held up other partiers as well as we were led directly to a lounge area right next to a window with a great view of the city. Feeling like we were in our own screening of the Hangover 2, we enjoyed sipping on fancy cocktails and catching up on what each of us had been doing for the past few weeks. Feeling famished, we headed down Silom street towards the Night Market on Patpong. We cut down a side street in search of some Green Curry, but ended up at Molly Malone’s Irish Pub as it was one of the few remaining restaurants still open. Despite being an Irish pub, it actually was perfect. We tucked ourselves into a dark wood booth on the second floor and ordered what ended up being great Thai food, accompanied by some delicious Irish beer/cider. We stayed there long enough to gather some 
liquid courage and then headed towards the bars of Patpong, a nefarious area known for its questionable activities. A short amount of time and large amount of money later***, we ended up across from Molly Malone’s at an Italian restaurant sharing more drinks and laughing about our crazy evening. (Pearce: for those of you keeping score – we have been in Thailand for less than a day and the two restaurants or meals have been Irish and Italian joints) Around 3 am we decided it was time to say goodbye to our friends and it was only then that we realized Pearce’s flip flops (and only remaining shoes as he lost his Keens earlier in the trip) were missing. So kind Gordon allowed him to keep his socks and we hopped in the cab back to get some sleep.
liquid courage and then headed towards the bars of Patpong, a nefarious area known for its questionable activities. A short amount of time and large amount of money later***, we ended up across from Molly Malone’s at an Italian restaurant sharing more drinks and laughing about our crazy evening. (Pearce: for those of you keeping score – we have been in Thailand for less than a day and the two restaurants or meals have been Irish and Italian joints) Around 3 am we decided it was time to say goodbye to our friends and it was only then that we realized Pearce’s flip flops (and only remaining shoes as he lost his Keens earlier in the trip) were missing. So kind Gordon allowed him to keep his socks and we hopped in the cab back to get some sleep.The next morning we solidified the rest of our travel plans, using it as an excuse to rest and recover. Apparently partying until 3am isn’t as easy over 30! We headed out early afternoon to solve the shoe problem. This entailed him walking with only socks through rain soaked Bangkok neighborhood streets for 20 minutes, riding on the Sky Train for another 20 minutes, and then walking through the Siam Discovery Mall, an upscale mall which luckily had a Converse store. So thanks to a wild and crazy night, Pearce got his first pair of Chucks. (Pearce: here is to you Ziggy!)
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through the seemingly endless malls, each fancier than the next. We were in search for the VIP Bangkok movie experience, which has different variations depending on the theater, but basically entails you sitting in a comfortable Lazy-boy, tucked in with a blanket and being served drinks. Unfortunately, at each theater we went to, the movie we wanted to see was not available or had already played. We eventually gave up and headed to a tiny night food market just off Thong Lo BST. Just a string of about 10 different food stalls, Pearce and I settled on a hole-in-the-wall that sold a delicious Pad Thai. We then splurged and also ordered mango and sticky rice for dessert – yum. Our grumpiness was smothered in sweetened condensed milk.
The next day we woke up early and Pearce put together a detailed cinema action strategy based on some schedules he had found online. We headed first to an older shopping complex called the 
MBK that has everything and anything you could ever want, including a theater. We selected our seats in an early showing of Captain America in the VIP theater. We had some time to kill so we wandered from floor to floor picking up knick knacks, as well as some CDs (for me) and computer programs (for Pearce, NERD ALERT yall). We headed to our movie 20 minutes before, like we would in the US, only to be stopped when we tried to go in. This makes sense as we already had our seat number and so didn’t have worry about getting a good seat. We waited out our time in the lounge area sipping on our pre-movie fruit punch cocktail. Our mouths dropped when we entered the theater; it was amazing. The plush seats we grouped in pairs and only had about 100 in the whole theater. Each seat also came with a blanket which was essential as the room bordered on freezing. Once seated, we were brought our drinks and 
popcorn which we had ordered out in the waiting area. Let’s just say, paying $13 for a movie isn’t so bad when you get to watch it like this. In true Susan Korb style we decided to double down and so headed for another mall where we knew that they were playing the final Harry Potter in 3D. Showing some restraint we opted not to go VIP again which turned out fine as it being IMAX theater, it was already very nice. Actually, it was by far the best IMAX theater I have ever been to and so big I actually had to move my head side to side to see the whole thing. Plus, it was Harry Potter. If you haven’t seen it yet, what are you doing? I am in Thailand and have seen it. I mean, come on.
MBK that has everything and anything you could ever want, including a theater. We selected our seats in an early showing of Captain America in the VIP theater. We had some time to kill so we wandered from floor to floor picking up knick knacks, as well as some CDs (for me) and computer programs (for Pearce, NERD ALERT yall). We headed to our movie 20 minutes before, like we would in the US, only to be stopped when we tried to go in. This makes sense as we already had our seat number and so didn’t have worry about getting a good seat. We waited out our time in the lounge area sipping on our pre-movie fruit punch cocktail. Our mouths dropped when we entered the theater; it was amazing. The plush seats we grouped in pairs and only had about 100 in the whole theater. Each seat also came with a blanket which was essential as the room bordered on freezing. Once seated, we were brought our drinks and 
popcorn which we had ordered out in the waiting area. Let’s just say, paying $13 for a movie isn’t so bad when you get to watch it like this. In true Susan Korb style we decided to double down and so headed for another mall where we knew that they were playing the final Harry Potter in 3D. Showing some restraint we opted not to go VIP again which turned out fine as it being IMAX theater, it was already very nice. Actually, it was by far the best IMAX theater I have ever been to and so big I actually had to move my head side to side to see the whole thing. Plus, it was Harry Potter. If you haven’t seen it yet, what are you doing? I am in Thailand and have seen it. I mean, come on.Knowing we had been totally nerdy all day we decided to redeem ourselves by watching the Friday Night Muay Thai boxing. Using Bangkok’s amazing transportation system again, we arrived to the Lumphini Stadium around the half-way point in the lineup, meaning we had missed the newbies and were able to see the more talented combatants straightaway. Dodging the touts who try to scam “special” seats, we bought the standard 1000 Baht tickets from the ticket office which we knew were in the rowdiest part of the stadium. We entered through a small concrete doorway 
which opened to a a rickety wooden platform overlooking the pricier seated sections as well as the actual ring. Off to our left was a section of tourists huddled together and looking a bit shell-shocked. Off to our right was a huge mob of Thai men, all standing on wooden benches and screaming their heads, similar to what you would see on the trading floor of Wall Street. We headed to the right. The actual bout begins with the two opponents greeting each other and then performing a ritual where they bob and bow rhythmically to a beat put down by a small band playing traditional music off to the side. Once they feel their offering is complete, the ref signs that the round will begin. The fighters face off, and begin to kick, knee, and punch each other to the beat of the music. As each round passes the music picks up tempo, and accordingly so do the fighters. This also means that by the end of the fight the crowd becomes crazed, hooting and hollering with each hit made. We headed home that night exhausted from all of the excitement.
which opened to a a rickety wooden platform overlooking the pricier seated sections as well as the actual ring. Off to our left was a section of tourists huddled together and looking a bit shell-shocked. Off to our right was a huge mob of Thai men, all standing on wooden benches and screaming their heads, similar to what you would see on the trading floor of Wall Street. We headed to the right. The actual bout begins with the two opponents greeting each other and then performing a ritual where they bob and bow rhythmically to a beat put down by a small band playing traditional music off to the side. Once they feel their offering is complete, the ref signs that the round will begin. The fighters face off, and begin to kick, knee, and punch each other to the beat of the music. As each round passes the music picks up tempo, and accordingly so do the fighters. This also means that by the end of the fight the crowd becomes crazed, hooting and hollering with each hit made. We headed home that night exhausted from all of the excitement.Our final full day in Bangkok was dedicated to more traditional sightseeing. We started off at Jim Thompson’s house, an expat who almost single-handedly started the Thai silk industry after relocating here after serving time there in the military. His home is also a great place to visit because it is a real representation of Thai homes from many remote regions. With our entry fee, we were led on 
an excellent tour of the home where we not only learned about Thai architectural design, but about other features we had seen in our travels. For instance, we learned that a large carved wooden board was actually a silk screen used to print sarongs. After there we went on a walking tour headed towards a restaurant, Chote Chitr, that Pearce wanted to eat ate for lunch. On our walk we passed by many Wats (temples) and the stores that support them with candles, deities, etc. We also passed by what remains of a giant swing which was used in competition to see who could swing the highest for money. This ended as
many of the competitors died trying. We arrived at our lunch spot and quickly ordered a green and red curry and coconut soup from a pretty surly older woman. (She got mad when I tried to order in Thai). Despite this setback, the food was delicious and well worth its write up in the Lonely Planet. Post lunch, I showed Pearce Koh San Road, a mainstay on the traveler’s circuit that totally caters to the needs of the stereotypical backpacker. Tattoo shops, banana pancakes, and fisherman’s pants abound. We moved through the street pretty quickly, but were able to score a beautiful set of large wooden wind chimes which Lena had been looking for forever.
an excellent tour of the home where we not only learned about Thai architectural design, but about other features we had seen in our travels. For instance, we learned that a large carved wooden board was actually a silk screen used to print sarongs. After there we went on a walking tour headed towards a restaurant, Chote Chitr, that Pearce wanted to eat ate for lunch. On our walk we passed by many Wats (temples) and the stores that support them with candles, deities, etc. We also passed by what remains of a giant swing which was used in competition to see who could swing the highest for money. This ended as
many of the competitors died trying. We arrived at our lunch spot and quickly ordered a green and red curry and coconut soup from a pretty surly older woman. (She got mad when I tried to order in Thai). Despite this setback, the food was delicious and well worth its write up in the Lonely Planet. Post lunch, I showed Pearce Koh San Road, a mainstay on the traveler’s circuit that totally caters to the needs of the stereotypical backpacker. Tattoo shops, banana pancakes, and fisherman’s pants abound. We moved through the street pretty quickly, but were able to score a beautiful set of large wooden wind chimes which Lena had been looking for forever. Our next major stop was to Wat Pho, one of the larger temples in Bangkok just next to the Palace. The grounds are stunning with cross-legged golden Buddha’s wherever you look. The Wat is also home to a number bigger Buddha statues that you can see close up once you have removed your shoes. We learned that you must sit with your feet pointed away from the Buddha to be respectful. By far the most impressive statue on the grounds is an enormous reclining Buddha that barely fits in its very large room. The outside of the Buddha is covered in gold while the bottom of its feet are adorned with 108 tiny mother of pearl Buddha's.
After the Wat, we hopped on the City Ferry from Pier 8, headed towards the main pier. At least that’s what we thought we did. We actually hopped on a boat going the wrong way to the amusement of the boat staff. We were quickly put off on the next stop to catch a boat going in the right direction and scored a primo spot overlooking the edge next to some monks. The boat taxi was an efficient and pain free way to travel across the city and had the added bonus of being an impromptu sunset cruise for less than $5.
We ended up meeting Lena at a funky in-town restaurant called Cabbages and Condoms, an enterprise that support Safe Sex education as well as other community improvement projects. It is located down a small Soi (street) off of Sukhamvit road and has a tropical rainforest feeling interior including mist and hanging vines lit with string lights. It really gives the place a magical feel. As it was our last night in Bangkok Pearce made sure to stock up on his fill of traditional Thai food including: fried eggrolls, pork neck, Pad sew ok, Pad Thai, and Massaman curry. Everything was outstanding and Pearce was near to exploding. We finished the evening off with our complimentary condom and headed home to pack up our stuff for the islands.
*** For the full story of our first night in Thailand and Bangkok please inquire in person under the following conditions: All parties including both the storytellers and the audience must be inebriated or in the process thereof unless exempted by a medical professional. All moral judgment must be suspended for the duration of the tale. If you have any of the following conditions or attributes you are cautioned against any inquiry: if you are under the age of 18 years, if you suffer from heart disease or fainting spells, if you are prone to vertigo or nausea, if you have never made a series of bad decisions despite knowing better, if you are already nervous, concerned, threatened, or scared simply by reading this overly long disclaimer.
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