Koh Lanta 08/31-09/09
We arrived to Koh Lanta via Krabi Town (the mainland port town) to beautiful weather, a refreshing change to the cloudy skies on Koh Tao. This was very surprising as we had read/heard 
it was monsoon season on this side of Thailand and had mentally prepared ourselves for rain and gale force winds. In fact, we only had a few nights of rain our whole nine day stretch. We chose Koh Lanta as opposed to the more popular Koh Phi Phi (the island tragically devastated in the 2004 tsunami) as we were told by our trustee advisors Katelyn and Gordon it was a really chill and undeveloped island: perfect for relaxing. I had been to Koh Phi Phi and had never been to Koh Lanta so it was going to be a new experience for both of us. We had attempted to book a place to stay, but plans had fallen through last second so we arrived to the island bungalow-less. We did know we should get as far South on the West coast of the island because it is where the beaches are the most beautiful this time of year. Further up North the beaches are trash strewn as the monsoonal winds blow debris in from deeper parts of the ocean. So sad. The Eastern side is dominated by mangrove swamps with only a smattering of Sea Gypsy villages along its edge. There are also rumored crocodiles in hiding out in these waters, but this has been adamantly denied by the people who live here.
it was monsoon season on this side of Thailand and had mentally prepared ourselves for rain and gale force winds. In fact, we only had a few nights of rain our whole nine day stretch. We chose Koh Lanta as opposed to the more popular Koh Phi Phi (the island tragically devastated in the 2004 tsunami) as we were told by our trustee advisors Katelyn and Gordon it was a really chill and undeveloped island: perfect for relaxing. I had been to Koh Phi Phi and had never been to Koh Lanta so it was going to be a new experience for both of us. We had attempted to book a place to stay, but plans had fallen through last second so we arrived to the island bungalow-less. We did know we should get as far South on the West coast of the island because it is where the beaches are the most beautiful this time of year. Further up North the beaches are trash strewn as the monsoonal winds blow debris in from deeper parts of the ocean. So sad. The Eastern side is dominated by mangrove swamps with only a smattering of Sea Gypsy villages along its edge. There are also rumored crocodiles in hiding out in these waters, but this has been adamantly denied by the people who live here. At first glance on ou
r drive down we were not impressed. The buildings along the main highway looked run down and many were out right abandoned. We worried we had made a mistake in coming. Our minivan driver finally made us and the remaining six passengers get out unceremoniously dumping our belongings on the side of the road. Seeing no taxis, or really any form of available transportation—they weren’t kidding about the low season— we strapped on our bags and started walking south. After ten minutes and one wrong turn, I decided to start hailing any car that drove by, which were far from frequent. My flagging produced a non-descript black pick-up truck loaded with supplies. As luck would have it the driver was the son of an owner of one of the resorts on one of the island’s beaches, Katiang Bay. This bay was voted Best Beach in ALL OF THAILAND. His resort was called Lanta Marine View Resort. This was quite a fortunate coincident as, of the resorts on the island, this was the resort we had wanted to stay, but was quoted a ridiculous price online. I casually asked how much it was and it turned out to be half the online price including air conditioning, hot water, and an elevated bayside view. Jackpot! We arrived to the resort, were greeted by a friendly staff and shown to our perfect bungalow. Right then we knew that Koh Lanta was going to be great.
r drive down we were not impressed. The buildings along the main highway looked run down and many were out right abandoned. We worried we had made a mistake in coming. Our minivan driver finally made us and the remaining six passengers get out unceremoniously dumping our belongings on the side of the road. Seeing no taxis, or really any form of available transportation—they weren’t kidding about the low season— we strapped on our bags and started walking south. After ten minutes and one wrong turn, I decided to start hailing any car that drove by, which were far from frequent. My flagging produced a non-descript black pick-up truck loaded with supplies. As luck would have it the driver was the son of an owner of one of the resorts on one of the island’s beaches, Katiang Bay. This bay was voted Best Beach in ALL OF THAILAND. His resort was called Lanta Marine View Resort. This was quite a fortunate coincident as, of the resorts on the island, this was the resort we had wanted to stay, but was quoted a ridiculous price online. I casually asked how much it was and it turned out to be half the online price including air conditioning, hot water, and an elevated bayside view. Jackpot! We arrived to the resort, were greeted by a friendly staff and shown to our perfect bungalow. Right then we knew that Koh Lanta was going to be great.Having arrived early in the day, we unpacked our bags, dropped off our laundry (they do that too) and strolled around the little village right next to beach. First stop was lunch at Drunken Sailors in order to stop Pearce from being “man-gry”*. This place became a daily visit, whether for a delicious American or Thai meal or to use their ridiculously fast(er) internet. If we lived o
n the island this place would become our regular place like Steinbeck’s in Atlanta. We recommend the Banana pancakes (Pearce) and then Thai Iced Tea shake (Allyson). Comfortably full, but with some trepidation we headed next door to Scubafish, a local dive shop. Given our recent experience in Koh Tao we were not overly enthusiastic about diving again so soon. Again our luck in Koh Lanta would continue in a windfall. From the moment we stepped in the staff at Scubafish went over and above to make us happy customers, even before we were actual customers. Fressa, a Swede who has been living in Thailand for ten years, told us in detail about their shop, what the dives were like, and thoroughly explained the cost breakdown. He then walked us through the shop showing us the equipment they used and having us try on a variety of sizes. It all looked so perfect hanging in neat rows, obviously well cared for…not a single hole in the wet suits. Although we had only been curious about doing a dive later in our vacation, we decided right then to do a dive with them the next day and most likely a three day package if things kept going well.
n the island this place would become our regular place like Steinbeck’s in Atlanta. We recommend the Banana pancakes (Pearce) and then Thai Iced Tea shake (Allyson). Comfortably full, but with some trepidation we headed next door to Scubafish, a local dive shop. Given our recent experience in Koh Tao we were not overly enthusiastic about diving again so soon. Again our luck in Koh Lanta would continue in a windfall. From the moment we stepped in the staff at Scubafish went over and above to make us happy customers, even before we were actual customers. Fressa, a Swede who has been living in Thailand for ten years, told us in detail about their shop, what the dives were like, and thoroughly explained the cost breakdown. He then walked us through the shop showing us the equipment they used and having us try on a variety of sizes. It all looked so perfect hanging in neat rows, obviously well cared for…not a single hole in the wet suits. Although we had only been curious about doing a dive later in our vacation, we decided right then to do a dive with them the next day and most likely a three day package if things kept going well.The next morning we met them at 7 Eleven at 7:11 and jumped into the back of the already loaded truck with another couple. Due to the season, we had to drive across the island to the Old Town pier for roughly 30 minutes. We hopped out there and started unloading the truck, only to be told politely that we needn’t worry, it would all be taken care of for us. We were quickly escorted to a longtail boat which brought us to a gorgeous single engine boat where we were told to hang out on the top covered deck while they unloaded all the gear and supplies. About five minutes later one of the dive crew popped up and laid out a breakfast of chocolate croissants, 
fruit juice, iced coffee and bananas and were informed of the all you can drink cooler stocked with water and cola. I mean are you kidding!? As we take off on our two hour voyage to Koh Haa (or Five Islands) we are briefed on the boat procedures and prepped for our dives for the day including routes, precautions and marine life. This is when we find out that all of our equipment will be set up for us, all we needed to do was put it on and to do our buddy checks (BWARF: inflate Buoyancy Control Device; Weight belt should be a right hand release; Air - do you have any? ; Releases for a quick escape; Fins and mask). Having nothing to do equipment-wise we hung out on the covered sundeck with the other divers swapping travel stories and enjoying the beautiful views.
fruit juice, iced coffee and bananas and were informed of the all you can drink cooler stocked with water and cola. I mean are you kidding!? As we take off on our two hour voyage to Koh Haa (or Five Islands) we are briefed on the boat procedures and prepped for our dives for the day including routes, precautions and marine life. This is when we find out that all of our equipment will be set up for us, all we needed to do was put it on and to do our buddy checks (BWARF: inflate Buoyancy Control Device; Weight belt should be a right hand release; Air - do you have any? ; Releases for a quick escape; Fins and mask). Having nothing to do equipment-wise we hung out on the covered sundeck with the other divers swapping travel stories and enjoying the beautiful views.
Koh Haa, our dive site, is basically a ring of small Karst islands with a more shallow “lagoon” in their center. It is truly one of those “magical” (sorry George) places you feel privileged to see and belongs more in the movies or imagined paintings. Honestly, I think both Pearce and I would have been happy just swimming and snorkeling around the lagoon, but we had signed up for dives so we suited up, buddy checked and jumped in. AH-May-Zing. Okay people. If you have never done SCUBA diving, this place’s sheer existence on the planet demands to be added to your life list. So go to your closest dive shop, get certified, than buy a ticket to Thailand and see it for yourself. The first thing we saw as we descended was, you guessed it… a purple starfish. We had arrived.Both dives that day, an
d in fact all six of our dives, were incredible. During the first one we circled Ko Ha # 2 (the islands are numbered) and apparently someone had phoned ahead to make sure all of the animals were in their proper places as we floated passed. Everywhere we looked the ocean teamed with life: parrotfish, bannerfish, butterflyfish, clown fish, pufferfish, snapper, barracuda and a ton of other fish I haven’t a clue what their names were. It was during this dive we also saw a school of poisonous lionfish hovering in an ominous formation, a giant squid and a jellyfish. We came up from our first dive on a high and I don’t believe from the nitrogen in our bodies. We dried off, with the warm towels provided by Scubafish, and then gathered again on the upper deck to eat the delicious Thai lunch that was also provided. About an hour later we hopped back in the water ready to see more.
d in fact all six of our dives, were incredible. During the first one we circled Ko Ha # 2 (the islands are numbered) and apparently someone had phoned ahead to make sure all of the animals were in their proper places as we floated passed. Everywhere we looked the ocean teamed with life: parrotfish, bannerfish, butterflyfish, clown fish, pufferfish, snapper, barracuda and a ton of other fish I haven’t a clue what their names were. It was during this dive we also saw a school of poisonous lionfish hovering in an ominous formation, a giant squid and a jellyfish. We came up from our first dive on a high and I don’t believe from the nitrogen in our bodies. We dried off, with the warm towels provided by Scubafish, and then gathered again on the upper deck to eat the delicious Thai lunch that was also provided. About an hour later we hopped back in the water ready to see more.
Over the course of the rest of our dives we also saw lion-tailed seahorses, banded sea snakes, conchs, garden eels, moray eels, giant puffer fish and a camouflaged scorpion fish. Corals were just as abundant, with fire coral, fan coral, bubble coral and brain coral, to be found in all shapes in colors. We did have a few favorites: the purple starfish (of course); the seal face puffer which looked like a cross between a dog and a seal; the long fin banner fish that always swam in pairs; the baby black clownfish that hide in the anemones; and the troops of small squid the scoot around the water changing color in each new environment they encounter.
We were also able to visit a few other islands within the five (actually six) including the Cathedral which consisted of a number of huge, but shallow caves with swim trough's and the Chimney which was a chute that you swam down into, through a cave packed with fish and back out into the open blue. Every dive there was something novel to see and discover. There was one thing we missed out on seeing in our dives. Although not specifically a feeding or cleaning station, every now and then whale sharks are known to swim through Koh Ha. Unfortunately for us, one decided to visit on our day off, giving the divers the extra special treat of swimming with one of the largest animals on the planet. We cannot say enough good things about the operation and the people involved at Scubafish, Koh Lanta. The dive sites alone were astounding, but in addition the dive masters and other people employed by the company were top-notch and the treatment we had there was more than could be expected. In our obvious appreciation for three days of great diving we walked to the Seven-Eleven and bought a twelve pack of Thailand’s finest, Singha Beer and shared them on the door step of the dive shop with the likes of Magnus, Frasce (spelling?), Rosie, Saffron, Kim and Jon. We swapped stories, both dive and non-dive related and soaked up the post-dive aura.
On the days we weren’t diving, we explored the island via motor scooter. Our first time out we arranged for two scooters as we were both first-timers and nervous about being responsible for the other person. It is not uncommon to see tourists with white bandages covering parts of their body from a face plant into the asphalt. As we gained our confidence, we rented only one although it took awhile for Pearce to let me drive. We 
had no exact plan as the island has few roads and can be explored in its entirety very easily over the course of the day. In the course of our travels we saw a few Sea Gypsy communities on the Southeast corner of the island. These seafaring nomads are an ethnic minority in Thailand with their own distinct language and culture. We also passed a number of mosques and temples, as both Buddhist and Muslim Thais also live on the island.
A video taken by Allyson from the back of the scooter along the Western shore.
Further up the mangrove covered coast we visited Old Town, a small village which was founded as a Chinese port city. It was dominated by a series of colorful stilt houses that perch out over the 
water. It was there that we bought a traditionally woven hammock from a very nice woman at a cute little shop called Hammock Town. It was also on Old town we saw the most terrifying fish held hostage in a tank just larger than his enormous body. He was white-pink, with no scales, a huge bulbous forehead and no teeth. He looked like the world ugliest baby. What made him scary was when you approached the tank he would come at you with such aggression, trying to gum his way through the tank to attack you. I can’t say I really blame him as he led a pretty miserable existence in that tank. We regret not getting a picture, but I suppose that is okay because we still can’t get his freaky image out of our heads.
water. It was there that we bought a traditionally woven hammock from a very nice woman at a cute little shop called Hammock Town. It was also on Old town we saw the most terrifying fish held hostage in a tank just larger than his enormous body. He was white-pink, with no scales, a huge bulbous forehead and no teeth. He looked like the world ugliest baby. What made him scary was when you approached the tank he would come at you with such aggression, trying to gum his way through the tank to attack you. I can’t say I really blame him as he led a pretty miserable existence in that tank. We regret not getting a picture, but I suppose that is okay because we still can’t get his freaky image out of our heads. 
Another highlight of Koh Lanta was a self guided nature tour. Animals included troupes of roadside monkey gangs, goats, cows, horses, and gila monsters. We also saw hidden beaches, jungle forests, mangrove trails and cliffside views of the ocean. We avoided the inland caves as we had been warned in addition to having to crawl on your belly, there were giant glow in the dark spiders. Pass. We ended our tour at the Noon Bar, oddly named as it is an ideal and advertised location to view the sunset. We settled in to wait and actually didn’t have much hope to see the sunset, but to our delight it dipped below the clouds and gave us an amazing show. 
Koh Lanta was also full of indulgences. We whiled away our time by reading out on our bungalow’s bay-view patio, rainy day napping and watching various shows we had burned to our hard drive including Entourage, Justified and Boardwalk Empire. And since we shared a beach with the only 5 star resort on the island (the Pimilai), one day we acted as casually as possible, strolled in, grabbed two lounge chairs by the infinity pool, and began ordering exotic cocktails including one with mango, mint and juniper. Because of the low season, we had the pool and the gorgeous view that came with it to ourselves all day long. Another day we worked up enough energy to 
go to the Serenity Spa on the North side of the island in the main town Sala Dan. There we had massages and foot treatments. For Pearce it was his first Thai massage and I believe he has mixed feelings about the experience. I am not sure if it was the woman elbowing him, contorting him into odd shapes or jumping on his back, that turned him off. It is definitely not for everyone. It can’t be denied that you feel like Jell-O afterwards so we recovered out on their back porch that overlooks the water, relaxing and drinking green tea. On the topic of Lanta and luck, Pearce even had the chance to play in a hush-hush game of locals only poker. He spent one of the nights playing no-limit Texas Hold’em with some Thai and ex-pats alike sharing his bottle of Jameson whisky and making fast friends in the process. He only lost $6 but had a really good time. Of many culinary indulgences including the numerous tropical fruit smoothies and exotic versions of Western hamburgers we enjoyed a lot of really good Thai food. We had curries of all types including Penang, which we had not yet had. It is now one of Pearce’s favorites. Drunken Sailors was obviously a favorite with its never changing, kind staff, open air bungalow feel complete with optional hammock seating and native cats wandering around. Another favorite place, recommended by the ex-pat dive masters from SCUBAFISH was named after the bay, Kantiang. It was a family operated joint, just inland to the main drag either a 8 minute walk or 3 minute scooter ride away. Its menu featured almost all Thai staples with dirt cheap prices.
We, or I should say Pearce, did have one major challenge in Koh Lanta. We had heard from the dive instructors there was a restaurant called The Frog that offered up an eating challenge on each Sunday. It required for one person to eat a 12 inch baguette with various types of meat, cheese and accouterment in 30 minutes and they would get it for free (and I suppose have bragging rights). Pearce got it in his head to do it and who am I to stop a man from accomplishing his dreams! The sandwich was gi-normous. Pearce put on a really good show, tearing through most of the sandwich in the first 20 minutes, but his body started giving some major signs of struggle—profuse sweating, shaky hands, belching. I thought he was going to do it, but it came down to about 6 small pieces of steak left in two minutes and there was no way he could chew through it fast enough. Still I was proud. And grossed out.**
Towards the end of the our time on Koh Lanta we felt the bitter sweet of having to leave this lovely island, but also felt the excitement of the next journey. On the last night we decided to visit one of the resorts around the corner from ours. It had intrigued me as it looked quite different from the rest: it was done in modern minimalist style, decorated in acute angles and concrete instead of the omnipresent beach-side bungalow style. It was a German owned and designed resort called the Houdon. We went on a lark, but when we ascended the steps we beheld an amazing panorama of a fiery sunset just over the islands of Koh Ha, our dive site, on the horizon. So it was there we shared some red wine and ate our last real, authentic Thai food. I had some of the best Massaman curry, which was a mission of mine, and Pearce had some super spicy ground beef dish. 
A video cast from our last night in Koh Lanta and Thailand.
Koh Lanta was one of the longest single stay destinations for us, clocking in at nine days. Although we were concerned on first impression, it quickly became one of our favorite places. Our Thailand diving experience was redeemed, our stay was cheap and of high value and we got to spend time on the beach, in an infinity pool, watching sunsets and eating great Thai food. It was a perfect way to leave Thailand.
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*Mangry (adj.) pronounced mang-gree – a negative mood or anger that results when a man really needs a meal pronto; otherwise he turns into the hulk; coined by Katelyn and Gordon
** A video account of Pearce taking the Challenge is forthcoming!
Loved this recap - sounds like am amazing place! What a great way to end Thailand.
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